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buying a used car


Dee

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if you were buying a 2nd hand car would you be most likely to:

 

- buy from a garage

- buy from a dealer

- buy from a independent seller

 

- offer the asking price?

- half the asking price

- another amount (how do you calculate this??)

 

- organise a tax disc in advance?

- get the car delivered?

 

is 30mpg reasonably economical?

 

If you buy from an independent seller - what recourse do you have if something goes wrong!

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if you were buying a 2nd hand car would you be most likely to:

 

- buy from a garage

- buy from a dealer

- buy from a independent seller

 

- offer the asking price?

- half the asking price

- another amount (how do you calculate this??)

 

- organise a tax disc in advance?

- get the car delivered?

 

is 30mpg reasonably economical?

 

If you buy from an independent seller - what recourse do you have if something goes wrong!

 

Getting it from an independent seller will usually get you the better deal but if you know a mechanic get them to check it over for you as you will buy it 'as seen'.

 

feeling any better btw?

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On value/price, check the asking price vs the Glass's or Parker price guide, both online

 

I'd buy Privately if I could but always take someopne along who knows about car5s. Actually paying for an inspection is not a bad idea

 

My tank (15 year old Merc C class) gets 30mpg

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Getting it from an independent seller will usually get you the better deal but if you know a mechanic get them to check it over for you as you will buy it 'as seen'.

 

feeling any better btw?

not really - I'm at home in bed having been in work y'day + today for exam boards (as no f***** would offer to help cover the meetings) - got a docs appt at 4.30 today..

yourself?!

 

let's just 'say' the car was 1395 - you are not really going to give them the full whack - i'm useless at bargaining - so where would you start?!!

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not really - I'm at home in bed having been in work y'day + today for exam boards (as no f***** would offer to help cover the meetings) - got a docs appt at 4.30 today..

yourself?!

 

let's just 'say' the car was 1395 - you are not really going to give them the full whack - i'm useless at bargaining - so where would you start?!!

 

 

nah, I'm still struggling away in work.

 

If it was me I would look to start around 1150, providing the asking price was in the ballpark of the price guides Tosh mentioned. If you can get anything between 1-150 off that price you will be doing well.

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start lower than that Dee...whats the worst that can happen? if they agree to lower price = bargain if not then you'll still be below asking price...all dealers mark up as they expect bargaining.

 

just dont do what the bloke who bought the car off me did...I had it on sale for £800 but was expecting to get £500 at the very most as it was a s***heap...he hmmed and haaed and started the bargaining process at £750 :lol:

 

"er...OK"

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start lower than that Dee...whats the worst that can happen? if they agree to lower price = bargain if not then you'll still be below asking price...all dealers mark up as they expect bargaining.

 

just dont do what the bloke who bought the car off me did...I had it on sale for £800 but was expecting to get £500 at the very most as it was a s***heap...he hmmed and haaed and started the bargaining process at £750 :lol:

 

"er...OK"

 

Was his first name Christian?

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have a look under the bonnet and kick at least one of the tyres

ha! noted...should I say 'hmmmm' a lot and rub my chin?

 

in all seriousness - if you buy a car from someone and it 'looks' ok, starts and drives ok - but in 2 days falls apart/is dead etc - do you have any recourse - does the 'sales of goods' act apply here? or am i just being a dullard/

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ha! noted...should I say 'hmmmm' a lot and rub my chin?

 

in all seriousness - if you buy a car from someone and it 'looks' ok, starts and drives ok - but in 2 days falls apart/is dead etc - do you have any recourse - does the 'sales of goods' act apply here? or am i just being a dullard/

apparently not! "You do not have any legal recourse as regards quality where you are buying through an individual who is selling an item as a one-off private sale (although they must have legal title and it must be as described in the advert)."

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The best way to bargain is to pick on something not right with the car (a scratch or if MOT is due or tax not long left on the car) and use that as a basis to haggle. To knock the price down for the sake of it won't get you very far. Oh and doing a deal for cash and making the seller aware you have the cash on you ready to do the deal there and then may also encourage the seller to budge a bit (don't do this if buying from someone in moss side, isle of dogs, toxteth etc especially if on your own lol)

 

http://www.carmax.com/

 

Although I would never, ever buy a used car. No idea what the hell the previous owners have done inside the vehicle. :o:o

 

Don't follow the logic you have there mate. With the current credit crunch and two new number plates a year in the UK it's a no brainer to buy used as it's a buyers Market. I personally purchased a 2 year old merc from a dealer in June and saved £18k of what the original list price was so have saved myself from the first major period of deprecation for a new car

 

apparently not! "You do not have any legal recourse as regards quality where you are buying through an individual who is selling an item as a one-off private sale (although they must have legal title and it must be as described in the advert)."

 

Yes you are right the only recourse you would have to grass the seller up to trading standards would be something like if you later discovered the car had been clocked (thereby meaning the car had actually done more miles than stated by the buyer and what it states on the speedo).

 

Also a current little scam isthe fake logbook. This means check the reg no on the logbook and look at the VIN number which is ingrained in the windscreen of the car where the tax disk is

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ha! noted...should I say 'hmmmm' a lot and rub my chin?

 

in all seriousness - if you buy a car from someone and it 'looks' ok, starts and drives ok - but in 2 days falls apart/is dead etc - do you have any recourse - does the 'sales of goods' act apply here? or am i just being a dullard/

 

Afraid it's a case of caveat emptor Dee. I believe if you buy from a car auction some of the cars have 48 hours grace for you to return them if you find faults.May not apply though for cheapie cars. Get a diesel too, mileage per gallon is far better, I get over 60mpg combined in my Fiesta. In my Evo it was claimed to be 30mpg... yeah right, was lucky to get 25mpg.

 

Only recourse you can claim from the seller is if they knowingly declare the car has not been involved in an accident, when in fact they did know.

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if you were buying a 2nd hand car would you be most likely to:

- buy from a garage

- buy from a dealer

- buy from a independent seller

 

I'm a bit cautious over stuff like this - if it goes wrong it'll cost you a fortune - so I would most likely go to a proper dealership as you should get a vehicle in better condition etc. and they will look after you longer term better than an independent used car business or a private seller. You'll pay over the odds at a dealership but that's why it's a bit less risky. You might strike lucky with a private sale but I'd always have a full inspection done before buying. It's a real case of buyer beware if you're buying privately or from a used car seller.

 

- offer the asking price?

- half the asking price

- another amount (how do you calculate this??)

 

Never offer the asking price. Rule of thumb I would say go in about 20-15% less than the asking price and see where it gets you. But always check current prices - the Auto Trader website is a good guide.

 

 

- organise a tax disc in advance?

- get the car delivered?

 

In most cases the tax disc. MOT, logbook and service record should be fully up-to-date - if they're not then you have a real bargaining chip in your favour as regards the price - so I would never, ever buy a car without those things being in place already. The only thing you need to worry about is the insurance. That is the only thing you in particular need to sort out beforehand. You can't drive the car away without the other stuff (service record excepted) so you should make sure the seller has everything else in place before you handover the money.

 

You normally only ever get a delivery if you are buying brand new..... normally with a used car sale, wherever it's from, once the paper work is in place you just turn up to collect and drive it away.

 

is 30mpg reasonably economical?

 

Depends what kind of car, fuel and engine size it is. 30mpg is fairly low generally but if it's a 3 litre petrol engine then it's OK. Diesels tend to have much better fuel consumption but are only really likely to make a difference if you are doing long journey's on a regular basis (I'm up and down the motorways in mine all week and get 55mpg a lot of the time). If you want a little run around for getitng back and within a reasonably small radius - 20 or 30 miles say - an engine size of something between 1.0 and 1.4 then I would think 30mpg was on the low side.

 

If you buy from an independent seller - what recourse do you have if something goes wrong!

 

None. You can buy a private warranty though that will cover you to some extent for major repairs etc.. They can be pricey though so it might be better just to but away £50 a month against future repairs.

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Don't follow the logic you have there mate. With the current credit crunch and two new number plates a year in the UK it's a no brainer to buy used as it's a buyers Market. I personally purchased a 2 year old merc from a dealer in June and saved £18k of what the original list price was so have saved myself from the first major period of deprecation for a new car

 

Agreed. Buying new is mad generally - if you get a new car with your job or whatever then fair enough - buying new out of your own pocket is mental unless you're so well off that you don't need to worry about it and can afford to lose £15k of value in a year for no apparent reason - the depreciation is ridiculous. And as you say, the way the market has shifted over the last few years means you can get nearly new cars for huge discounts these days.

 

Next question - I need to buy something in the 3500-4000 pound range, what are the best options?

 

So far I've looked at some Audi A4s and Mazda MX-5s.

 

I'd say it depends entirely on what you want it for......

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Also a current little scam isthe fake logbook. This means check the reg no on the logbook and look at the VIN number which is ingrained in the windscreen of the car where the tax disk is

Quarter of a million DVLA V5C certificates stolen a couple of years ago are still in circulation....

 

In most cases the tax disc. MOT, logbook and service record should be fully up-to-date - if they're not then you have a real bargaining chip in your favour as regards the price - so I would never, ever buy a car without those things being in place already. The only thing you need to worry about is the insurance. That is the only thing you in particular need to sort out beforehand. You can't drive the car away without the other stuff (service record excepted) so you should make sure the seller has everything else in place before you handover the money.

She should check insurance quotes on the car she's planning to buy...if insurers refuse to cover it, there may be a problem.

 

This is also timely on second hand cars.

http://www.oft.gov.uk/news-and-updates/press/2010/95-10

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